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predator z shaft |
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poolshark
Just can't stay away
Joined: 13-Mar-2006
Posts: 105
From: derry city, n.ireland
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Posted: 2007-12-18 17:19
my predator z shaft which i have had for a couple of years now hasnt been abused but it has developed a crack along the grain. a mate of mine has a newish z2 which has went the same way.
its as if the "glue" or whatever composite was used in its manufacture has stopped holding the layers together.......on hind sight i cleaned my cue last week with a cleaning product that contains bleach.but this product was made specifically to clean cues.
anyone else seen heard of this happening before?
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RACKRUNNER21
Home away from home
Joined: 19-Sep-2006
Posts: 862
From: Bristol
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Posted: 2007-12-18 19:50
No i aint heard of that happening before, you may want to contact predator they may replace/repair it for you...and the bleach cleaning stuff wouldn't of done that i use the Q clean stuff if thats what you mean and it hasn't done anything to my cue before
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thediamond
Home away from home
Joined: 13-Mar-2006
Posts: 1520
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Posted: 2007-12-18 20:44
Its a common problem with Predator shafts that are cleaned with any water based product or product that water is applied to and its not dried thoroughly. If its split down the shaft at a segment join, I would be surprised if Predator warranty it. I have tried before with this (with some one else's shaft I might add) and they sent the shaft back to me. Also, if you leave your cues in damp areas or in the back of cars, you run the risk of this happening. Si [ This message was edited by: thediamond on 2007-12-19 08:39 ]
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nicknameless
Home away from home
Joined: 10-Jan-2007
Posts: 560
From: Birmingham
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Posted: 2007-12-18 23:08
Talking of pred shafts - can anyone advise how to remove the protective coat (I'm presuming that is what it is) that is on new shafts without doing any damage?
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wayne
Quite a regular
Joined: 14-Sep-2006
Posts: 53
From: North Carolina, USA
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Posted: 2007-12-19 02:33
On 2007-12-18 20:44 , thediamond Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! Its a common in Predator shafts that are cleaned with any water based product or product that water is applied to and its not dried thoroughly. If its split down the shaft at a segment join, I would be surprised if Predator warranty it. I have tried before with this (with some one else's shaft I might add) and they sent the shaft back to me.
Also, if you leave your cues in damp areas or in the back of cars, you run the risk of this happening.
Si As usual, you're right on target Simon. Predator recommends "rubbing alcohol" be used to clean their shafts. Their web site has a section devoted to maintenance that discusses it (under Customer Service). Water, Magic Eraser, the green scouring pads, all are bad for any shaft, (especially laminated shafts).
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wayne
Quite a regular
Joined: 14-Sep-2006
Posts: 53
From: North Carolina, USA
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Posted: 2007-12-19 02:42
On 2007-12-18 23:08 , nicknameless Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! Talking of pred shafts - can anyone advise how to remove the protective coat (I'm presuming that is what it is) that is on new shafts without doing any damage? If you remove the protective coating, the shaft is subject to failure. The coating is applied by the manufacturer to help prevent moisture gain or loss. New shafts might feel "sticky" until used for a while. If that's the trouble, use a piece of rawhide/leather to burnish or polish it and build up a patina. Eventually it will become smooth. Also, each time after you play, use a dry towel to wipe the shaft real well.
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Ads
Home away from home
Joined: 07-Sep-2007
Posts: 1894
From: Essex, England
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Posted: 2007-12-19 08:19
my shaft is getting on a bit (its a 314-2 not a Z-shaft) and it seems that the protective coating has gone and feels nowhere as smooth as my friends 314-2 (he just had a new one sent to him due to problem with ferrule).
Is there anyway to get this initial smoothness back into the shaft?
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thediamond
Home away from home
Joined: 13-Mar-2006
Posts: 1520
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Posted: 2007-12-19 08:42
Nice one Wayne. Mountain of information you are. Merry Christmas mate and my love to Pat.
Ads.....I use a product called cue slide (pro9 shop???) but any equivalent will do. I buff it off with a towel.
Si
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Ads
Home away from home
Joined: 07-Sep-2007
Posts: 1894
From: Essex, England
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Posted: 2007-12-19 09:39
ah right, cheers Si.
Do you do any product like this in the shop Dave? Any chance of it being introduced?
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BigDave
Forum User
Joined: 13-Mar-2006
Posts: 11008
From: England
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Posted: 2007-12-19 09:55
We'll get some in now!
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nicknameless
Home away from home
Joined: 10-Jan-2007
Posts: 560
From: Birmingham
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Posted: 2007-12-19 10:02
On 2007-12-19 02:42 , wayne Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! On 2007-12-18 23:08 , nicknameless Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! Talking of pred shafts - can anyone advise how to remove the protective coat (I'm presuming that is what it is) that is on new shafts without doing any damage?
If you remove the protective coating, the shaft is subject to failure. The coating is applied by the manufacturer to help prevent moisture gain or loss.
New shafts might feel "sticky" until used for a while. If that's the trouble, use a piece of rawhide/leather to burnish or polish it and build up a patina. Eventually it will become smooth. Also, each time after you play, use a dry towel to wipe the shaft real well. many thanks
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nicknameless
Home away from home
Joined: 10-Jan-2007
Posts: 560
From: Birmingham
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Posted: 2007-12-19 10:10
On 2007-12-19 02:33 , wayne Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! On 2007-12-18 20:44 , thediamond Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! Its a common in Predator shafts that are cleaned with any water based product or product that water is applied to and its not dried thoroughly. If its split down the shaft at a segment join, I would be surprised if Predator warranty it. I have tried before with this (with some one else's shaft I might add) and they sent the shaft back to me.
Also, if you leave your cues in damp areas or in the back of cars, you run the risk of this happening.
Si
As usual, you're right on target Simon. Predator recommends "rubbing alcohol" be used to clean their shafts. Their web site has a section devoted to maintenance that discusses it (under Customer Service). Water, Magic Eraser, the green scouring pads, all are bad for any shaft, (especially laminated shafts). Got to say I've used magic eraser (dry with no water or alcohol) to clean my old 314s now for over a year, with no noticeable damage to them. I just prefer a clean not 'blued' shaft and the feel of it. What is the particular problem with magic eraser for this purpose - I was under the impression that it wasn't abrasive but simply removed chalk staining?
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wayne
Quite a regular
Joined: 14-Sep-2006
Posts: 53
From: North Carolina, USA
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Posted: 2007-12-19 11:43
On 2007-12-19 10:10 , nicknameless Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! Got to say I've used magic eraser (dry with no water or alcohol) to clean my old 314s now for over a year, with no noticeable damage to them. I just prefer a clean not 'blued' shaft and the feel of it. What is the particular problem with magic eraser for this purpose - I was under the impression that it wasn't abrasive but simply removed chalk staining? My experience is Dry Eraser only works when a liquid is added. I'll have to try your method. Thanks. If I use alcohol, I only use denatured (no water in it). Isopropyl alcohol has a water content. Most important is to maintain the protective coating. That will minimize the chalk stains & make them easier to remove when the shaft is being cleaned. Dry Eraser removes most coatings & leaves a raised wood grain (when used with a liquid).
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wayne
Quite a regular
Joined: 14-Sep-2006
Posts: 53
From: North Carolina, USA
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Posted: 2007-12-19 11:46
On 2007-12-19 08:42 , thediamond Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! Nice one Wayne. Mountain of information you are. Merry Christmas mate and my love to Pat.
Ads.....I use a product called cue slide (pro9 shop???) but any equivalent will do. I buff it off with a towel.
Si Thanks Simon. Happy Holidays to you & Michelle. Pat sends her love. Best holiday wishes to all Pro9 members as well.
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Riggers
Home away from home
Joined: 30-Mar-2006
Posts: 4454
From: Barnsley (centre of the universe)
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Posted: 2007-12-19 13:38
On 2007-12-19 02:33 , wayne Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! On 2007-12-18 20:44 , thediamond Wrote:!!! QUOTE !!! Its a common in Predator shafts that are cleaned with any water based product or product that water is applied to and its not dried thoroughly. If its split down the shaft at a segment join, I would be surprised if Predator warranty it. I have tried before with this (with some one else's shaft I might add) and they sent the shaft back to me.
Also, if you leave your cues in damp areas or in the back of cars, you run the risk of this happening.
Si
As usual, you're right on target Simon. Predator recommends "rubbing alcohol" be used to clean their shafts. Their web site has a section devoted to maintenance that discusses it (under Customer Service). Water, Magic Eraser, the green scouring pads, all are bad for any shaft, (especially laminated shafts). Steve Brown uses lighter fluid on his shaft. Presumably that acts in the same way as alcohol?
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nipper
Home away from home
Joined: 17-Mar-2006
Posts: 329
From: harrow middlesex
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Posted: 2007-12-20 20:19
lighter fluid will be ok to use as it is used by artists to clean their paper sheets. if that company is using a glue that will not stand up to cleaning with anything containing water then i am relieved i dont have any of their products and the rest of you should stop buying NOW. [ This message was edited by: nipper on 2007-12-20 20:28 ]
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