9-Ball
Topic: X Breaker Advice

Hi

I have recently got my hands on a xbreaker (gen1) cue. However been finding the cue a bit light. The Shaft feels extremely light and the varnish on the shaft isn't very smooth. The weight is meant to be 18.5 but i was wondering what are my options to making it heavier?

Can i add some sort of weight to the end or in the butt without doing too much with it. Can i actually buy weights like you can for the Predator's?

I would also be very interested in what some of you xbreaker owners have experienced with the cue.

What i am finding is when i break it makes a very distinct *Twink* sound unlike a regular cue and it really does spread the balls reallly well.

In appearance it has couple of distinct features, the tip it has a small black line between the tip and the ferrule. From what i read that the cushion layer when they thread the tip to the ferrule right?

The cue itself comes in 3 pieces - Shaft and the 2 parts that make up the cue. The joint between butt and the top half of the cue (not the shaft). There a little xbreaker logo on the lower joint that splits in half horizontally when u want to use it it to jump.

Take it that pretty much standard with all xbreakers?

Cheers

Kyo

On 2007-08-10 09:46 , Kyo Wrote:

If it really does spread the balls well why change it? If it broke dont fix it !

I have one of the latest x-breakers and really love it. It jumps great and it breaks great. I'm not sure why you would want a heavier one though. The best breakers amongst our top players prefer a light-weight break cue as it allows you more control and increased acceleration through the shot, which are the 2 most important things about your break action, rather than sheer mass behind the cue ball.

I don't think it's as easy to add weight yourself as it is with other cues and i think you'll need to contact x-breaker for a purpose fit weight bolt. Diamond will be able to confirm this. If I were you though, I'd keep it as it is and be thankful you have one of the lighter models

The black line between the tip and ferrule is probably a fibre pad, which is there to protect the ferrule from damage.

Sadly, Richard Chan, owner of Xtreme Billiard Technology, Ltd (www.XtremeBilliard.com), the inventor of the X Breaker, has developed a very serious health issue and is no longer able to supply, build or service any cues for the foreseeable future, and I'm sure you would all join me in wishing him all the best.

I personally think lighter cues are easier to accelerate, but actually require more practice to deliver a controlled break with straight follow through than a heavier cue (momentum adding a stabilizing effect perhaps?)

The distinctive "Twink" sound as you break is typical of the non-leather tipped break cues with combination ferrule/tip set ups. It does sound unnatural and unusual especially if you are used to a more traditional contact, but whether you like the sound or hate it, you've got to love the effect.

Incidentally, if you hear your leather tipped playing cue beginning to make a similar twinking sound, it may be a sign that the tip is becoming detached, or worse, an indication that the ferrule is damaged. An urgent and VERY thorough investigation is recommended in this case, and even a tip change, just to be safe.

Better quality cues often have additional or alternative weight bolts to add weight, or weight bolts that can be cut/trimmed to reduce the weight.

To determine the approximate effect of a weight change, a temporary fixture of a small weight inside the central cavity secured by that blue putty can be made, but the poor quality of fixing may detrimentally affect the quality of "the hit".

I even knew a chap who wanted so much weight added that he poured molten lead into the cues cavity (not recommended as some burn damage was sustained by the cue).

I hope this helps!


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On 2007-08-10 10:27 , BigDave Wrote:

My dad did that to his snooker cue after heating the lead on a spoon over the stove. Burn damage was sustained but it was to his HAND. Very nasty and not recommended.

thanks for the replies guys. Really appreciate the responses. Had 2nd thoughts about adding weight to the cue after the comments. I suppose i just have to pracitse with it a bit more. The end result at the end of the day is the most important and i must say (when i hit it right) it does break fantastically well.


the sound doesn't bother me, infact i quite like it. The shaft is somewhat a little sticky take it a bad idea to sand it down.

Sanding is ok if you use the right material i.e. VERY fine. Preferably P2000 wet and dry but that's hard to come by. I use a worn out piece of P1200 and it does the trick nicely. Don't go any more coarse than that and only use it as a last resort on rare occasions. Best thing to try first is to wipe it with a slightly damp cloth or use a specialist cue cleaner.

There's also a selection of cue cleaning products in The Pro Shop



Sorry... The Simpsons mania has got me!

Is there a 2 piece x-breaker available... or are they all 3 piece?

On 2007-08-10 14:03 , Danny Wrote:
Just don't unscrew the bottom section

Steve Brown once told me to use lighter fluid to clean and polish the shaft. It works but it's not advisable if you're a chain smoker!

Will lighter fluid make my cue lighter?

On 2007-08-10 14:18 , Riggers Wrote:

LOL riggers true.. very true... but if you were just wanting to buy a break cue, and there was an option of the same cue in 2piece or 3piece. which would you buy?

I'd buy the 3-piece if they were the same price so I could sell it easier when I got fed up with it.

Maybe it is just me but i find that the twank sound does not seems to be so noticeable in the 3rd generation x breakers especially fitted with the rubber thing on the butt.